Under The Sink Built-In Shelf

I’ve got a fairly easy building project to share with you today. Another goodie from our bathroom makeover. One that honestly you probably never saw, since I don’t think I shared the inside of the cabinets. Today we are addressing that blessed area under the sink.

Cabinet space under the sink is a space that always goes under-used I think. We never know what to do with that big open space. 

Since we removed the cabinet above the toilet, I knew I was going to need to use this space. And, if I was going to use this space, it needed to be more useful!!

So, we dug through our scrap wood and found enough pieces that would work to build an extra shelf! I didn’t really care that much what the wood looked like or if it matched, since I knew it was all getting painted out.

The bottom of the cabinet had sustained some water damage and was no longer flat. To solve this issue, we cut a piece of wood to fit and slid it into place. Nailing or gluing was not necessary. The weight of the wood will hold it in place.

Then we measured and cut a few more pieces – top of shelf, side of shelf, and two support pieces to help hold it all in place – under the shelf on the left side and beside the side piece on the right side.

We nailed all the pieces together in place and there ya go!

Way better available space now!

I just realized I never took a picture of it after it was all painted out! Bad blogger! I’ll be back soon with that and pics of how I organized the space inside the vanity to make it work for our family. Thanks for stopping by today!!

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DIY Board & Batten

Now that the holidays are over and I have my brain back, I want to share a couple of the DIY projects from our bathroom makeover.

First up, our DIY board & batten. 

Supplies needed:

Lattice wood
Liquid nails (optional but I liked using it)
Finishing nails and hammer (or finish nail gun)
Nail set
Saw (hand miter saw works just fine)
Caulk (paintable)
And of course paint color of your choice

First step was to prime the wall. Especially since we were going with a traditional white finish. (You’ll see in later pictures that I also went ahead and painted the top half of the wall – really doesn’t matter which one you do first.)

Next was to purchase supplies. I found my lattice wood at home depot with the molding. Looks like this.

We used 1″ and 1 3/4″ width to get the look we wanted. It is sold here by linear foot. Hubby cut it down to an approximate size in the store to make it easier to transport.

Start with your horizontal pieces first. Measure and cut to size each piece. I used a 1″ piece along the bottom since I was leaving the baseboard, but the other two horizontal pieces are 1 3/4″.

Apply liquid nails. (look for the type made for paneling)

Make sure it is level.

Nail in place. This little guy was a Christmas present and he made this job a lot easier, but it is totally doable without.

Continue with all horizontal pieces.

Now it is time to add the vertical pieces. To measure each piece to size I simply held it in it’s place and marked and cut.

These are the same as the others – glue, level, nail. I will pause here to talk about the spacing of all the boards. This is a matter of taste really. Check out the internet for pictures of all different kinds of board & batten. The options are endless. I will admit that the spacing between my vertical pieces is not the same around the room. I went by look. I knew how many vertical boards I needed to get the look I wanted, measured the width of the space, did some division, and came up with the placement. This might have actually been the hardest part of the whole project!!

After all your wood is in place, you will want set your nails with a nail set. Then I would recommend that you sand the wood. This wood is not great quality, smooth wood, so this step will help it look even better. Then you will need to get busy filling all the nail holes, and caulking between the wood and the wall, and filling any cracks left behind from human error. 

Lots of caulk, tired fingers, necessary evil to make the end product look good.

The last step is just paint – you will want to prime the lattice wood, and then paint all surfaces, including the wall, with the same paint.

And you are left with this!!

The look I wanted at a fairly reasonable cost, and a doable DIY, all things I LOVE!

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DIY Floating Mantel

Another addition in the Family Room Refresh!! A while back when I decided to paint the brick around our fireplace I also removed the mantel. It was never really my style. The fireplace sat naked for weeks, as I pondered what to put in it’s place. I toyed with the idea of building a surround, something tailored and traditional, or just a simple floating mantel.  My mind just kept going back to the latter, so that’s what we went with. And I’m soooo glad we did!!  I love it!!
DIY floating mantel

I had considered adding corbels, and I may still do that if I find some I love, but for now I love it as is!!
The DIY was not as hard as I thought it might be. Sometimes I can dive right into a DIY and get ‘er done, and other times I’m a bit intimidated.  I don’t know why, but some things get me psyched out!  
We started by attaching a ledger board to the brick.  We attached the appropriate anchors into the mortar in between the bricks, and then attached the board with screws.  
How to attach a floating mantel to brick
Screwing into the anchors and into the two pieces of wood on either end.  (That puppy ain’t goin nowhere!)
Then, we attached six 2″x4″x6″ pieces along the ledger board to help support some of the weight of the mantel.  
attaching a floating mantel to brick
You can see that we really weren’t concerned about them being spaced exactly even – no one is going to see them remember.
Then we moved on to building the actually mantel piece.  You are building a box that is missing one side.  
how to build a floating mantel
We used 1″x8″ pieces of basic white board for this.  This is the same wood that I used in our entryway.  I wanted some character to the wood since I was staining it, so this was a great economical choice.  I used two 6′ pieces and one 8′ piece which cost me around $25.  
This was my first time to use my nail gun, and man did it make this project easier!! Each joint was glued and nailed to make sure it was secure. 
building a floating mantel
In an effort to have as few cut end pieces showing as possible, I did this.  
how to DIY a floating mantel
The two side pieces (which are actually the top and bottom) were cut shorter to accommodate the end pieces (the width of the wood shorter on each end).  
building a floating mantel
This way, from the front and the ends – the most visible parts, there is only one end of the board showing.  Clear as mud right? I hope so!! Here is the dry run before staining :).
floating mantel installed
I filled a few tiny gaps with stainable wood filler, and everything got a good sanding.  I smoothed all the edges and corners really good.  Then I stained it with a dark walnut stain, and topped it off with a couple of coats of polyurethane.  
floating wood mantel
Hanging it was super easy!  Slip it over the supports, and attach the mantel to the ledger board with screws.  We made our ledger shorter than the actual mantel to allow room to adjust the placement of the mantel when we were mounting it, which was very helpful to get the desired placement.
I snapped this shot right after we finished hanging it.  Such sweet satisfaction to DIY!!
updated fireplace with painted brick and floating mantel
Loving the finished product and can’t wait to get it styled up for spring!!
family room
Our family room is coming along.  It really is feeling more and more like a space I want to stay a while.  And, that’s a nice feeling.  

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Kitchen Ceiling and Lighting Details

It all started about a year ago when I decided to finally update our kitchen. {click on over and check out the before pics of the kitchen – even I didn’t remember how dark and dated it looked} Not too long after we started, hubby and I took a day trip to Dallas, and of course stopped in at IKEA. New kitchen lighting was on my list, because I knew they had less expensive options. I was leaning towards some sort of track lighting to replace our hideous fluorescent lighting in the kitchen.  And then we spotted these.  

source – IKEA
They were the perfect length, had lots of lights, and a big enough cover in the center to cover the existing holes that I knew would be left behind by the current fixtures. And…the price was fantastic! – $29.99
I wasn’t sure about the silver finish, or the super-modern look, but the price and size just couldn’t be beat.  The bad news–they only had one in stock that day!!  And, I needed three.  I left very defeated.  I looked into ordering them online, and really the shipping wasn’t bad – about the same as gas to drive down there and back, but I just never got around to it.

Fast forward to last month, when one of my precious friends mentioned she was heading to Dallas, and making a trip to IKEA.  IKEA, I said, I love that store, and I told her my lighting story. And then, bless her, she offered to pick up whatever I wanted!!  (Thanks Angela!!) So, that my friends is how I scored my modern-inexpensive-way better than fluorescent- kitchen lighting!!

We first started by ripping out the old.  And we were left with this ugliness.

My hubby decided to remove two of the three lights (which btw weren’t working anyway???). And we had this.

I had my plan for the ceiling, but had no idea the sides of the inset were popcorn – ugh. So, rather than scraping that off, or painting over it, I pulled some beadboard from my scrap pile, held it up over the sides and voila!  Perfect!  And it tied in with the beadboard on the backsplash!!

We attached the beadbaord to the sides with a little liquid nails and finishing nails into as many studs as we could.  

From previous planking experience, I knew it was necessary to paint the ceiling for imperfection purposes.  I did not want to see white popcorn in between those boards.

Then we found the ceiling joists and started planking, using the same wood we used on our rustic kitchen island. We nailed the boards into the studs, staggering the sizes of the boards along the way.  

We installed the light fixtures as we went. Mostly because we wanted to see what it was going to look like!!  You know, then if I hated it I could tear it down and start over!  Ha!

When that was all finished…the last board!!

And the lights were all in place

I used some molding to trim out the beadboard, caulked to fill in all the cracks and imperfections, and lastly painted the beadboard and molding.  I used corner round in the corners, and a chair-rail molding around the bottom edge. 

Here is the approximate price break-down for the project:

Three sets of lights + light bulbs – $130
One 4×8 sheet of beadboard paneling – $20
Trim molding – $30
Liquid Nails – $3
Paint – $3 (I used a sample jar because it was such a small area – and because I started with a sample jar that I already had :)).

Not a bad transformation for under $200!! For more after photos check out Monday’s post.

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